Virginia CDL: Double & Triple Trailers Practice Test

Not quite. The answer is The heaviest trailer

The rearmost trailer is much more likely to roll over than the front trailer. Position the heaviest trailer directly behind the tractor and position the lightest trailer at the rear.

Not quite. The answer is to lower its landing gear.

After you have uncoupled the rear trailer from the converter dolly, you need to uncouple the converter dolly from the front trailer. You do this as follows: 1. Lower the landing gear of the dolly. 2. Disconnect the safety chains. 3. Apply the dolly's spring brakes or chock its wheels to keep the dolly from moving. 4. Release the pintle hook connecting the dolly to the trailer ahead of it. 5. Slowly pull clear of the dolly.

Not quite. The answer is enough to remove some of the trailer's weight from the converter dolly.

Lower the landing gear of the second semitrailer enough to remove some of the trailer's weight from the converter dolly. This will make it easier to pull the dolly out from under the trailer.

Not quite. The answer is A truck has less traction when it's empty than when it's fully loaded.

Trucks that are empty or only lightly loaded take longer to stop because the stiff suspension springs and strong brakes give poor traction and make it easier to lock the wheels.

Not quite. The answer is leaks of air or hydraulic fluid

Check the landing gear as part of your walk-around inspection. Check that no parts are missing and it isn't bent or damaged. If the landing gear is power operated, check its hoses, fittings, and other parts for signs or sounds of escaping air or hydraulic fluid.

Not quite. The answer is Hook the converter dolly to the front semitrailer.

To couple standard doubles, the first step is to correctly position the dolly in front of the second semitrailer. You can do this by hand or by picking up the dolly with the first semitrailer. Either way, the dolly must be connected to the first semitrailer before proceeding further. Once this is done, back the tractor, first semitrailer, and dolly until you back the dolly underneath the second semitrailer. Only after you've checked and tested the coupling, and connected all the air lines and electrical lines, should you raise the landing gear.

Not quite. The answer is Never

Older vehicles may be equipped with manual front-wheel limiting valves. A control in the cab allows the driver to cut air pressure to the front brakes in half. It was thought that doing this would help reduce front-wheel skids on slippery roads. According to the CDL manual, however, more recent tests have shown that front-wheel braking is safe even on icy roads. Federal regulations now prohibit manual front-wheel limiting valves in vehicles manufactured since March 1, 1975. Automatic ratio valves, which limit front-axle braking only when brake applications are approximately 60 psi or less, are still permitted. These valves cannot be controlled manually by the driver. Note: The advent of antilock brakes (ABS) may make automatic ratio valves less useful as well.

Source: 49 CFR § 393.48

Not quite. The answer is The rig may jackknife.

Check your mirrors to monitor your trailers and see if a trailer has begun to skid. Do this every time you have to brake hard. Once the wheels of a trailer begin to skid, the risk of jackknifing is high. Once the trailer swings out of your lane completely, you may not be able to prevent a jackknife.

Not quite. The answer is The dolly tow bar may fly up.

If you unlock the pintle hook while the dolly is still underneath the rear trailer, the dolly's tow bar may fly up, making it harder to recouple and possibly injuring someone.

Not quite. The answer is air escape from the open valve.

Test the trailer brakes by opening the service line valve at the rear of the rig. You should hear the telltale hiss of air escaping. If you don't, it means that air is not flowing through the entire line, and you will need to investigate.

Not quite. The answer is Charge the trailer's air tank and then disconnect the emergency air line.

If the second trailer doesn’t have spring brakes, drive the tractor close to the trailer, connect the emergency line, charge the trailer air tank, and disconnect the emergency air line. This will set the trailer emergency brakes (assuming the slack adjusters are correctly adjusted). Chock the wheels if you have any doubt about the brakes.

Not quite. The answer is foot pedal.

The trailer hand valve (also called the Trolley Valve or Johnson Bar) operates only the trailer brakes, not the tractor brakes. Hence, use it only when you want to test the trailer brakes. Don't use it in normal driving because braking the trailers and not the tractor can cause a trailer to skid. The foot brake sends air to all the brakes on the vehicle – the tractor and all trailers. There is much less danger of causing a skid or jackknife when using just the foot brake.

Not quite. The answer is closed.

To uncouple the second trailer, start by applying the parking brakes to keep your vehicle from moving. Lower the landing gear of the second trailer. Close the shut-off valves at the rear of the first trailer (and on the dolly if so equipped) to keep air from going out of the vehicle. Then disconnect the dolly air and electric lines, release the dolly brakes, and release the dolly fifth wheel latch. You are now ready to pull the first trailer and the dolly away from the second trailer.

Not quite. The answer is the trailer will be raised slightly when the converter dolly is backed under it.

To connect the rear trailer to the converter dolly, the trailer must be at the right height. It should be slightly lower than the center of the dolly's fifth wheel so that the trailer will be raised slightly when the dolly is pushed underneath it.

Not quite. The answer is Use wheel chocks.

If the second trailer doesn’t have spring brakes, drive the tractor close to the trailer, connect the emergency line, charge the trailer air tank, and disconnect the emergency line. This will set the trailer emergency brakes (assuming the slack adjusters are correctly adjusted). However, if you have any doubt about the effectiveness of the trailer's braking system, chock the wheels.

Not quite. The answer is 10

The formula for following distance is one second per ten feet of vehicle length, plus an extra second if you are traveling over 40 mph. Therefore, for a 100-foot vehicle traveling at 30 mph, you should leave a following distance of 100/10 = 10 seconds. (At or below 40 mph, you do not add an extra second.)

Not quite. The answer is open; closed

When you are inspecting a double or triple combination, make sure that the service and emergency line shut-off valves are open at the rear of each trailer except the last trailer, where they must be closed.

Not quite. The answer is Use the engine brake or speed retarder.

A retarder supplements the braking force on the drive wheels. On a slippery surface, this may cause the wheels to lock, resulting in a skid. Turn off your retarder when driving on wet, icy, or snowy roads. Instead, slow down, increase your following distance, and try to brake gently.

Not quite. The answer is Allow much more space than is needed under ideal driving conditions.

The usual formula for following distance under ideal conditions is one second for every ten feet of vehicle length, plus an extra second if you are traveling at over 40 mph. The only thing the CDL manual says about following distance on slippery roads is that you should allow "much more space to stop." The Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration (FMCSA) recommends doubling your usual following distance under poor driving conditions.

Source: "CMV Driving Tips - Following Too Closely," FMCSA, https://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/safety/driver-safety/cmv-driving-tips-following-too-closely

Not quite. The answer is Pull against the rear semitrailer's pin.

To check the coupling of the rear semitrailer, pull against the pin holding the rear semitrailer. Never move your vehicle until you are sure that all trailers are properly coupled.